A week till takeoff

It’s been quiet on the blog front this week as my To Do list slowly depletes and I become more and more anxious to get out there and put this planning into action. I’ve been churning through the mundane doctor, dentist checkups and focussing on strengthening and resting my back. This weekend was the first since January that I didn’t get out and hike, partly to rest my back and to focus on the important people I’ll be leaving behind.

One more week to go. My list of things to do while I’m still in Australia is minimal, but the items left have been sitting there for weeks:

– PLAN FOOD

– advise bank I’m travelling OS

– suspend health insurance

– look up best mobile phone network in the US

– put music on iPhone

– print docs including travel insurance, flight itineraries etc

– review and action hiking notes from Sydney

– figure out what the current snow levels are and what they mean for the trip

– get fat

I’m currently enjoying the last point on the list while reminding myself to eat GOOD fats, so I’m not sure the burgers, chips and ice creams I’m consuming apply.

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All part of the training regime.

I am getting nervous, but more so impatient. I need to get out there now, unemployment and too much time to focus on the trip is driving me a little stir crazy. The pressure will be on in Vancouver to get my food purchased, dehydrated, sorted, packaged and boxed along with my maps and trail notes in the 10 days I’m there. This truly is the quiet before the storm.

One month to go!

With exactly one month to go until I step foot on the PCT and only two weeks until I depart Australia, things are starting to fall into place. Today I received two essential items for the trip, my permit to hike and camp along the PCT and, my thought to be missing Caldera Cone stove.

PCT permit

PCT Long Distance Permit

The fourth in a line of permissions and permits (Entry into Canada via the PCT, California Campfire Permit & US tourist visa) the PCT Long Distance Permit allows me overnight access anywhere along the trail and permission to travel on alternative trailheads to reach resupply towns.

The permit came with a letter from the Pacific Crest Trail Association, outlining some of the fire regulations and their backcountry best practise, whilst congratulating me on my decision to hike the trail. The letter was inspiring, ending with a line I thought really summed it up: “the Pacific Crest Trail exists because people like you have translated their passion into action.”

Caldera Cone stove

Trail Designs Caldera Cone stove set.

The stove has arrived just in time to start practising some basic cooking in conjunction with developing some kind of meal plan. It’s extremely light weight, due to the fact the pot is small enough to fit in a dolls house and the rest of the pieces fit inside a plastic caddy which doubles as a cup and bowl. I had read on many blogs that you can make  your own similar stove at home using an aluminium baking pan as a windshield and a soda can to burn fuel in. I didn’t expect Trail Designs would ACTUALLY make the burner system out of soda can!

Pot

My weeny non stick cooking pot (pictured right).

Caldera Cone stove 2

Trail Design’s alcohol stove made from a Diet Ginger Ale can.

 

Great North Walk – Thornleigh to Cowan (Day 2)

With my feet up on the coffee table it’s hard to believe the anguish I was going through earlier today climbing up and down the gorges inside Berowra Valley Regional Park. 14km felt more like 40km with the amount of climbing involved in this section of the hike.

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The Great North Walk goes all the way from Sydney to Newcastle (approx 300km).

I woke at 6am to kookaburras and buzzing mosquitos and after completing my back stretching ritual, started packing my backpack before taking down the tent. The Crosslands campsite was actually only 10 minutes down the path but there was another school group camping there so I was thankful I had my own quiet spot.

20130311-205338.jpgAt Crosslands I met a Chinese man and his elderly father who were also planning to hike to Cowan. They were enquiring as to where the trail started so we walked to the beginning of the track together and I left ahead of them, hoping they wouldn’t catch up too quickly given the father had to be in his 70’s.

The climbing was TOUGH! There were many parts where I had to fold away my hiking poles to hold onto the rocks and haul myself and the extra 1/4 of my weight up. There was one particular climb which just never seemed to end. I was muttering obscenities under my breath and would have yelled so the whole valley could have heard me if my two friends weren’t close behind me.

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Ground level looking over Berowra Waters.

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The view over Berowra Waters after another hideous climb up!

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

I took a quick snack and toilet break at the base of Berowra Waters and was surprised when my two Chinese friends were sitting there happily eating their lunch. The younger man only spoke basic English but after expressing to them what a tough climb it had been he just laughed and nodded. His father hadn’t even worked up a sweat! They insisted I take the rest of their food because I obviously looked like I needed it. On one hand the juicy apples looked delicious, on the other hand the thought of carrying any extra weight was too much! I compromised and took only one giant apple, and some kind of preserved beef snack.

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Some of the tricky rock climbs.

Despite my whining this was a truly stunning walk. What it did teach me was that every ounce of weight DOES make a difference, and that I’ll need to be meticulous when packing, especially if I’m expecting to carry seven days of food as opposed to just two!

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Two days worth of food.

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What was left over.

Great North Walk – Thornleigh to Cowan (Day 1)

I crawled into camp tonight like a wobbly four legged spider, walking poles flailing in front and my legs dragging behind. Today was the most challenging 20km walk I’ve ever done, add a 14kg pack and 9 hours of walking and you can understand why I fell short of my actual target.

I’ve stopped about 30 mins from the Crosslands Reserve campsite, in a little clearing with no facilities just beyond a group of young women on a canoe expedition. There are a few freaky noises outside the tent including growling, scratching, the odd branch snap and a whole host of activity going on in the reservoir I’m next to.

Today was full of adventure, lunch with a group of lizards after a quick dip in the lagoon, an encounter with a tree snake, walked through a rifle range amid the sounds of gun shots, getting lost a couple of times and setting up the tent while fending off swarms of mosquitos! I snacked all day and now don’t feel like eating dinner plus I haven’t peed since lunch which means the 3L of water I drank wasn’t enough. Luckily when I finally reach the Crosslands campsite tomorrow I can fill up my water bladder.

The ground is pretty soft so I haven’t bothered blowing up my sleeping mat. I’m just lying on it with my sleeping bag on top. It’s so hot I doubt I’ll need my -10 degree bag!

I may venture out to pee before bed and will hopefully avoid the anaconda in the river and the growling gremlin outside!

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The countdown is on!

Aside from downloading topographic maps on my iPhone, mending holes in my tent mesh, purchasing random bits of gear on mum and dad’s credit card, creating complex resupply spreadsheets, practising my daily back and glute exercises from the Osteo and planning my first ever solo overnight hike, my time in Sydney has been quite relaxed.

Hat

My new French Foreign Legion style hat for the desert.

I am suppressing some pretty major one month to go anxieties which vary between ‘I’m almost there’ to ‘holly crap there’s still so much to read, plan and do’. In the last week I’ve settled on a start date for the trail (Thursday April 18), secured a lift to the Mexico/US border (thanks to Don and Donna in San Diego), finally purchased travel insurance from World Nomads (who did confirm they would insure me for the trail), booked a car in San Diego, secured pick up from Vancouver airport (thanks BJ), educated myself about bear safety, and hiked with my ULA pack for the first time.

On Friday mum and I walked from their apartment in Manly to the Spit Bridge (approx 7.5km) along the Manly Scenic Walkway. I carried my pack with about 4L of water, tent, sleeping mat, sleeping bag and clothing, weighing close to 8kg.

IMG_2245My lower back was still giving me grief so the walk there was quite painful, requiring two Nurofens to keep me going. The scenery was beautiful though and we past at least a dozen lizards along the way. It took us 2.5 hours to get to a little cafe near the Spit Bridge where dad brought us a homemade wrap for lunch (won’t be getting this kind of service on the trail) and we enjoyed a COFFEE (still not sure how I’m going to live without it).

Dad drove mum home and I tackled the return journey solo. I used hiking poles going back which made an incredible difference to my speed and the pressure on my back, getting me home in 1.5 hours. Tomorrow I’m going to set off on a two-day, 34km hike starting from Thornleigh to Cowan.

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Stunning views looking back towards Manly.

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The ULA pack and solar panel in action.

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Mum and I ready for some serious hiking alongside shirtless joggers and mums with strollers.

No stove in sight

Everyday this week I’ve been waiting for the postman to deliver my Caldera Cone Stove from Trail Designs in the US, and sadly the night before I head to Sydney it still hasn’t arrived. It’s disappointing because the solar panel I ordered at the same time came a few days ago, plus I was planning to do my FIRST EVER solo overnight hike up there with my main pieces of gear (now minus the stove).

Canada permit

Approved to enter Canada via the PCT.

I did happily receive my permit to enter Canada via the PCT in the mail today though. I’ll need to decide what to do with this precious document during the hike. I think most people send it to their last resupply point in Washington before crossing the border. My biggest fear is that it could possibly get lost in the mail. I think people also send their passports to their last resupply point but this makes me even more nervous, and considering I’m not a US citizen I think I’ll need my passport and visa on me at all times anyhow.

It’s now less than a month before I’m on the plane to Vancouver. I’m going to do some serious planning, training and bits of gear purchasing over the next week with only mum and dad to distract me. When I get back to Melbourne I’ll have 10 days to go! Frightening!

Fairfield to Bentleigh (along the Outer Circle Trail)

My weekly hike today was more like a walk, however it was the toughest one so far on my body. Not only because it was the longest, but because I was terribly equipped was an ordinary overweight backpack.

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Start of the trail in Fairfield.

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Relieved to find this was in fact a marked trail.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

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Trail over the Yarra River.

The Outer Circle/Anniversary Trail is an 18km stretch of paved bike/walking trail from Fairfield to Hughesdale Station. This walk appealed to me because Hughesdale is close enough to home to walk once completed (5km). However, what should have been a 23km walk, turned into 27kms after some iPhone navigation issues which resulted in me taking the wrong turn at a crucial junction and having to backtrack.

The trail has a few road sections but I was surprised at how complete and continuous it actually was. An hour in, I emptied my entire 3L bladder and saved only one water bottle simply because my pack was so incredibly awkward and heavy to carry. This helped a little but the pains in my lower back had already taken hold, forcing me to walk VERY slowly.

There was a severe lack of public toilets along the trail, especially after my standard pre-hike coffee. I was in the process of sizing up some bushes when finally I found some kind of scout hall/cricket club/abandoned council building that had their public toilet open. Glorious!

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Survival kit

It wasn’t long after the quick bathroom break when heat, pain and mental exhaustion started to take hold. I pulled out all the stops, Nurofen and my iPod being the main remedies, to get me through the more monotonous part of the walk.

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The trail in all its glory.

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And again.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

The trail is probably better for cycling than walking, although for distance training it wasn’t bad. I think my back pain and feeble meandering made it less enjoyable, however I still got a kick out of self portrait photography, and my favourite section, the ‘Urban Forest’.

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ME, taking a break.

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ME, inside the Urban Forest.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Strangely towards the end of my walk my body seemed to loosen up a little. Could have been the Nurofen, the lighter backpack or the walking stick I acquired, but by the end of the trail I managed the final 5km walk home without too many complaints. After an icepack, a warm bath and an appointment with the Osteopath tomorrow my back and body should be good as new!

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Saved by the walking stick.

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The end of the trail, no bells or whistles in sight.

Shoe satisfaction

How many times am I going to write about my shoes you ask? Well it has to be said that I’ve finally reached a level of satisfaction in my shoe choice well above any other piece of gear or preparation so far. Thanks to the Outdoor Gear Store on St Kilda Rd in Melbourne (they really deserve this free plug), I’ve now got two pairs of shoes that I feel very confident in taking on the trail, for the small price of $120.

Salomans

I’ll be taking the two bottom pairs on the PCT starting with the green pair.

The pair pictured at the top above was the initial pair my parents picked up for me, and although it’s a great shoe, I needed a full size larger bumping me up from my original UK size 5, Euro 38 to UK 7.5, Euro 41. It seems extreme but I think my feet must have simply grown and will further expand with the heat and excessive use.

Both shoes are Saloman XR Crossmax but the green pair is the ‘Neutral‘ style (flatter) and the blue pair is the ‘Guidance‘ style (slightly bigger arch providing more support). The first green pair I bought started to fray a little so they gave me a brand new pair when I went in for the second time to purchase the blue shoes which only cost me $50. I was blown away. It’s the only piece of gear I’ve managed to save any money on! Now the only question lingering is will two pairs be enough?

Backyard camping

It’s one of the cooler nights in Melbourne this month (currently 18 degrees), and with a sprinkling of rain coming down I thought it a perfect night to test out the tent.

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Outside

I set it up as soon as my nephew went to bed otherwise he’d insist on sleeping in here too. I also hit my research maximum limit today and without brain capacity to ingest more advice the only practical thing to do was put it all into practise.

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Inside

My initial concern is a pinky size hole at the top of the mesh zip which I only discovered because a moth was trying to enter the tent through it. I’ll need to fix it before the mosquito swarms hit me in the Sierras.

I’m curious to see if my pack stays dry under the outside cover. There seems to be plenty of room to bring it inside if necessary. I’m also hoping I wake up sweating in my down sleeping bag otherwise I’m going to be freezing when I hit the snow or require at least 20 more layers!

VERDICT:

– Sweating is an understatement. Sleeping bag proved itself.

– Woke up to a few droplets of water on my face, assuming these were condensation.

– Stuff sack pillow not ideal, worked ok with fleece pants on top.

– Pack stayed dry under outside cover despite rain all night.

– Woke up with a swollen, itchy eye. Hoping it’s a bite and that I’m not allergic to down or any random tent fabrics.

– Foam sleeping pad I used was useless. Woke up lying next to it, didn’t even notice.

– Very noisy when windy – BUY EARPLUGS!

– Crocs are good. Must find a way to attach them to my pack.

– No idea how everything will fit in my pack. It was practically full for just one night in the backyard without food or 50% of my gear. Eeeeeek!

Ensure you’re insured

Travel insurance for thru-hiking, is there such a thing? The issue I’m coming across in my search for appropriate cover is the definition between hiking and mountaineering. Apparently if you’re not carrying specialised equipment you’re just hiking, which means you’re covered. But if you’re not carrying specialised equipment (ice axe, crampons) aren’t you more likely to have an accident? The trail is the trail after all, how can they offer you cover for being less prepared?

I’ve spoken to 3 providers so far:

Screen Shot 2013-02-26 at 6.22.06 PM1. Simply Travel Insurance: The guy I spoke to was super friendly and very helpful. Their product disclosure statement (PDS) states that if you’re trekking or hiking over 3,000m but under 5,000m altitude, special condition 1 applies. These activities must be: (i) With a commercial operator; and (ii) Available to general public; and (iii) Not considered extreme risk; and (iv) Not require any special skills or a high level of fitness. The guy was honest and said I wouldn’t be covered and directed me to call 1 Cover Travel Insurance.

2. 1 Cover Travel Insurance: The girl I spoke to helped clarify the general exclusions in the PDS: Sport & Leisure – Your claim arises because you hunt, race (other than on foot), engage in open water sailing, play polo, go mountaineering or rock climbing using ropes or climbing equipment (other than for hiking). This is where carrying an ice axe or using crampons takes hiking to mountaineering status. Not covered!

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Screen Shot 2013-02-26 at 6.19.52 PM3. WorldNomads.com: Even though this insurance is for ‘adventurous travellers’, there is still a question mark over if I’ll be covered while hiking the PCT. Hiking up to 6,000m is covered under additional level 2 cover but mountaineering is not covered at all. I’ve emailed them with the following information so the underwriter can make a final decision on whether they cover me or not:

I am attempting to thru-hike the Pacific Crest Trail (http://www.pcta.org/discover-the-trail/long-distance-hiking/) through California, Oregon and Washington from April 15 – September 15 2013. I will not be travelling with an organised group or guide. I want to ensure that the Level 2 cover will be adequate for hiking through the Sierra Nevada and Cascade Mountain ranges when there is still snow present and that this is not considered ‘mountaineering’. Some people take an ice axe or crampons to walk through the snow affected areas, however not everyone who completes the 5 month journey operates the same. Thanks for your clarification. 

There really doesn’t seem to be much info out there on travel insurance for PCT hikers and it’s probably the only subject Yogi doesn’t cover in her handbook. I’ll report back once I hear back from World Nomads.