The countdown begins Monday

Without trying to scare myself I thought it wise to calculate exactly how quickly I need to hike to make it out of the USA by the date my visa expires (Oct 10). This means I need to cross the border by October 9 which gives me exactly 30 days from when I leave Cascade Locks on Monday afternoon. From Cascade Locks there are 508 miles to Manning Park. Even my simple maths skills have allowed me to calculate that from Cascade Locks to Manning Park, I need to average a total of 17 miles a day for 30 days. This doesn’t take into account any zero days, which means that if I wish to take a break in the next month, I will need to have saved up enough miles in the piggy bank to ensure that my average daily mileage doesn’t go too far above 17.

Some may look at these numbers and say ‘piece of cake’. I look at these numbers and see little room for error. I am a good saver by nature though, so I think the motivation to fill the piggy bank with miles will help push me forward on the days when I’m lacking energy. Most of Monday will be spent sorting out my excess gear and resupply at the post office so I haven’t included that day in my calculations, which means any miles clocked on Monday go straight into the bank!

Now it’s time to hit the trail. I’m currently nursing a food coma after the most delicious breakfast thanks to Ann! The sun is finally shining again and it’s going to be a beautiful hike down to the OR/WA border!

Please ignore my creepy shiny front tooth in the video below:

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As the rain falls at Timberline

As I watch the rain falling outside my dorm room window, I can’t help but feel the world understands what a tough day it’s been.

Where’s Chris kindly brought UB to Timberline this morning so we could see one another, say our goodbyes (for now), and for UB to pick up his last resupply box for the trail.

I think because of the drama that has surrounded UB’s hike, a lot of people have forgotten that he’s like every other thru hiker that came to the PCT with certain goals and expectations. UB isn’t an ordinary human being, so it should be expected that he set himself an extraordinary goal and had infinite expectations. People may shake their head and say what he set out to do was too ambitious, I say the guy’s got balls. Anyone that can freely dream that big will one day succeed in life in the most incredible way. I know his day is soon to come!

Anyone who says the PCT is a walk in the park obviously hasn’t hiked the trail in full. Anyone that says the trail shouldn’t be that dramatic obviously hasn’t dared to step outside their comfort zone far enough. Anyone who makes assumptions from things they hear or snippets they read should think before making their thoughts public. Anyone who thinks they know UB should think again.

I wasn’t able to comprehend what the end of UB’s hike really meant until he asked if I would carry his two blue birds to Canada with me. At this point we both burst into tears with the realisation that his dream was coming to an end (at least for now). It takes a brave person to be able to swallow this realisation, walk away with a smile and truly wish the best for their partner who must continue on with the journey. Heartbreaking is the only word that gets close to expressing how this feels.

I’m so proud of everything UB has achieved during his hike. I’ve seen him grow and transform into the person I know he wished he could be before the trail. The total number of miles he walked throughout this journey is insignificant to the experiences he will take from it. I’m excited to be a part of his world, with a front seat to watch him transform the lives of others with the lessons he has been blessed to receive from the Pacific Crest Trail.

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A record day into Timberline

I’m lying in a dorm room at Timberline Lodge after completing my longest day on trail (34 miles), to arrive here by 8:30pm. My whole body is aching and if it wasn’t for the two ibuprofens I took before the final 6 mile ascent I think my body would have forced me to stop. Darkness and the pending storm kept me going, along with a handful of Fritos and about a bajillion cookies.

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My day started at 7am, but the terrain up until Little Crater Lake was relatively flat bar the first two miles. The lake did live up to its name, it was very small and incredibly blue like its big brother.

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I had lunch at the lake with Cookie Monster, Rubbadub and Steamer who was diligently studying his PCT map to ensure we were on track…

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After lunch it was all business. I’d done 14 miles but still had 20 to go. My mind was trying to convince my aching body to keep going, so that’s just what I did…

Then the rain set in…

The last mile was agonising in the dark, but it was too misty for a headlamp…

Needless to say I made it in safely and am so thankful I have a roof over my head as the weather outside is HORRENDOUS!!

More of Muk’s trail babble

After 29 miles today I didn’t quite have the energy to write a full post; but I pretty much summed things up in the video below…

I’ll also let the pictures tell the story…

According to the Guthook’s app I did about 5 miles upside down:

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Only cool kids ride the back of the bus

This bus analogy was shared to me this evening by Cookie Monster after I expressed concern for being at the back of the pack. I haven’t seen him since the kick off, and back then he was 100 miles behind me. I was happy with the 10+ miles I put in today to ease back into the trail, until Cookie Monster and four other thru hikers passed by my tent. Sure I stopped early and found an awesome spot near water to camp, but it didn’t help morale one bit. There can’t be that many through hikers behind me can there? I’ve been told there’s still a few, more than I probably expect, but I’m starting to experience some back of the pack anxiety as my biggest dislike is being or feeling rush. It doesn’t sit well with me.

It also didn’t help that Cookie Monster expressed how unbelievably fantastic his trip has been so far. What trail has he been walking? I’ve been told never to believe a thru hiker that says everything is peachy all the time, but he was definitely cruising faster and further than me today so I guess I let it get to me. Today almost felt like Day 1 for me. I’ve walked 85 miles in the last 2 weeks. That’s an average of 6 miles a day. No wonder my back, legs and feet were all complaining with a seemingly heavy pack and 10 miles of uphill. I’ve had lots of great food and rest over the last few days, but my muscles feel weak, and I’m definitely not at the same level of fitness as I was before I came off trail. I don’t think it will take long to get it back, but with Washington and bad weather on the horizon I can’t help but feel a little nervous.

Chris drove me all the way back to the trail this morning while UB went back to Urgent Care for a second visit. It was sad hitting the trail solo after having such an amazing time back together again. I thought 1000 solo miles was enough… but I guess the trail isn’t finished with me yet.

I passed a couple of south bound section hikers who asked if I was going passed Russell Creek. I had no idea it was only a few miles up the trail, so when they told me you should try to cross it before 10am I asked if there was camping nearby. When I got there an hour later I realised there was no way I was going to wait until the morning and was surprised at just how high the creek actually was.

The trail climbed for the next 5 miles, and I was lucky to catch a glimpse of Mt Jefferson when the sky cleared for no more than 20 minutes. When I reached the end of the climb at close to 7000 feet, the clouds and wind rolled in and the temperature dropped considerably. This was one reason I set up camp early. The other was simply because I’d had enough for today. I hope I can push out some big miles tomorrow and feel like I’m getting back on track.

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It’s a tough life in paradise

My stomach is bloated and I’m feeling a little woozy… could it have been the two waffles and bacon I had for breakfast, the freshly ground Peet’s coffee, the pound steak with cilantro butter or perhaps the homemade apple pie with ice cream and caramel sauce I devoured last night?

The first image below is a video (I’ve been told sometimes my videos show up as regular pictures).

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What a wonderful world

The more challenges the trail throws at you, the more you discover the extraordinary generosity, kindness and openness of human beings. I hesitate to use the word strangers, because the people who I’ve encountered throughout this experience, whether I’ve met them face to face or through comments on the blog, feel part of this experience and as close to me as many of my fellow hikers on the trail.

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Once again I was overwhelmed by the comments I received on my last post. It uncovered such wisdom and understanding in so many people following this journey, that I almost felt guilty for the incredible mental boost and inner peace it provided me with. Thank you for sharing that with me.

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Since the day I crossed the 2000 mile mark, forgave myself for the wrongs I’ve committed, and made a commitment to strive to be a better person, the trail has felt more comfortable. My relationship with UB couldn’t be stronger, and my body harnesses that same strength. I still feel a little pain from the nerve in my thigh, I have a knot in my shoulder and a slight muscle tweak in my neck, but considering what I’ve put my body through, these are minor ailments I can overcome.

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The trail through northern Oregon has been breathtaking! The scenery through the Three Sisters Wilderness, Mt Washington and Mt Jefferson, has been such a contrast to the section from Ashland to Crater Lake which was the toughest for me mentally along the entire trail. The stunning views have helped maintain my mood, but having someone to share them with has made the real difference.

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Our experiences recently have varied from minor hiccups, such as me making warm oats for breakfast with my dirty sponge in the bowl, to much more serious health issues which saw UB not being able to retain any food or fluids for the last few days and suffering from gastritis and dehydration. As men often do (sorry guys but it’s true), he tried to disguise his suffering until his constant vomiting and lack of energy was too much to continue. Unfortunately we were 20 miles away from civilisation both north and south with no phone signal. Once again I was in a situation where I didn’t know what to do (and obviously SPOT wasn’t an option!)

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My one lifeline I knew I could call was trail angel Where’s Chris. Once we were able to get phone signal about half a mile up the trail I called her immediately and explained our situation. In seconds she had maps out, looking for alternate exits off the trail that her and her partner Charles could collect us from. Within minutes Chris had a plan, Charles was fuelling up the 4×4, and UB and I only had 5 miles versus 20 miles to get to a trailhead. It took us 3 hours to get there, and the entire way we were in total shock that people who we’d never even met before would drop everything in a second and drive 3 hours one way to rescue us from the trail.

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The incredible generosity of Chris and Charles to travel such a distance, invite us into their home, shuttle us around and drive us back to the trail once UB is back on his feet is overwhelming. Even if I devote the rest of my life to providing for others I can barely repay the kindness we’ve received throughout this journey. Chris and Charles, you guys are unbelievable.

Picking up the pieces

During the last 1000 solo miles on the PCT, I learned a lot about myself and my limits. I learned how far I can be pushed by fear. I learned how far I can push myself through pain. I learned how happiness creates energy, and desperation sucks it all away. It is a mind game out here. Just as Billy Goat said to UB one day, ‘If the mind can think it, the body will follow’.

I rode the roller coaster of emotions each day, finding new thoughts to spur on motivation, and new tactics to pull myself out of some dark places. Life on the trail isn’t always as simple as eating, sleeping, shitting and hiking. Just as life off trail can easily become complicated, life on trail can follow suit. Out here, without distractions, comforts, friends or family; emotions become magnified, and the only person to talk things through with is sometimes ourselves.

Fortunately I did find some great people on trail to share the ups and downs with, and after 1000 miles alone, I realised just how much I missed sharing these incredible experiences. I also knew there was only one person I wanted to spend the remainder of the journey with.

I only discovered UB was in Oregon when I met Heidi and her family at Windigo Pass. I thought if we ever had the chance to hike together again it might happen somewhere in Washington, but little did I know UB was blitzing the trail, doing 40 and 50 miles a day, and was less than two days behind me when I reached Elk Lake.

Since our reunion on trail I’ve experienced some very powerful transformations. I thought I had learned a number of important lessons out here that the trail was destined to reveal to me, but what I have come to realise over the last few days was so far beyond what I ever expected to find out here. Today I probably had the greatest epiphany of my entire life, and it was only after I fell to rock bottom, and the trail exposed some of my darkest secrets and regrets, that I was able to start realising that the way I have been living life, on and off trail, needs some readjustment.

As the saying goes, no one is perfect, and I realised a lot of my imperfections as I walked the 15 miles from Hwy 242 to Big Lake Youth Camp this afternoon. I’ve been incredibly fortunate throughout my hike to have received a huge amount of support from so many people following my hike. From care packages of coffee to new shoes, from shirts to meal shouts, from snacks to Sofsoles. Strangers have taken me into their homes, met me on the trail, and written me words of support which have honestly helped me hike the distance I’ve travelled thus far.

But what have I given back? Sure I’m hiking from Mexico to Canada, keeping a blog and hopefully inspiring those who follow my adventure. But would I be prepared to give as much as I have taken from others? When I posed that question to myself this afternoon I realised that somewhere along the trail I got so caught up in the gifts and attention, that I lost sight of what was really important out here. I don’t think I really understood why I was out here until this afternoon, when I realised that I had taken more than I would have been prepared to give in return. That although I’ve been one to give, I’ve only parted with things I’ve been comfortable in sharing, rather than going without so another can benefit.

As I opened my eyes to these realities, I started to reflect on all the things I’ve done in my past that I’m not proud of, and how behavioural habits have seen me repeat the same mistakes multiple times. Even with good intentions we can hurt the ones we love, we can become overtaken by greed, and we can take for granted the things we are given. For all of these things I know I have been guilty of more than once, on and off trail.

I’ve never followed religion or believed in God, but today I felt like I was able to make sense of so many things that once seemed impossible to understand. Somehow a light was turned on, and it not only exposed many flaws, but a lot of answers I didn’t even know I was searching for. After hours of hiking without a break, I finally sat down in the shade of a tree and waited for UB to catch up. He understood I needed time and space to work through these thoughts, just as he had needed at the beginning of the trip. The trail has an incredible power to heal, and I only got a taste of just how powerful this journey can be for those who are willing to open themselves up, and give into the mercy of the trail.

Less than a mile up the trail, UB and I reached the 2000 mile mark. At that moment I think we both realised just how far we’d come, together and alone, and just how much we had grown, together and as individuals.

Actions speak louder than words, but for now I just want to say thank you to everyone who has played a role in my journey along the Pacific Crest Trail so far. There are many things I would do differently given the chance, but I’m grateful that I still have over 600 miles to discover more about the person I want to be when I reach the northern terminus, and step into the next chapter of my life.

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The power of people

I had an interesting self discovery today after a few people had suggested I spend more time on trail with other hikers to lighten my mood. It is definitely true that things started to pick up for me after meeting Brad and Melissa just past Crater Lake, chatting with Madam Squirrel and Madam Weasel that same day, and then spending my morning, lunch and afternoon break with Brad and Mel the next day.

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I also had a bonus pick me up by receiving a surprise package from some friends of Fuller at the water cache past highway 138, and the next day I received a message from Heidi (a wonderful trail angel in Oregon), telling me she and her family were camped at Windigo Pass with lots of extra food (which just happened to be where I’d planned to camp that night).

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I hiked with Brad and Mel for the last 6 miles to the pass which absolutely flew by, due to a lot of laughter and the thought of what delicious treats lay ahead! Heidi and her beautiful German Shepard met us about a mile down the trail before the pass. I’d seen some huge paw prints on trail and was starting to wonder what creature had created them!

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Heidi’s husband and two beautiful children greeted us on arrival, and after setting up camp we were served tomato soup, sausages, bread and fresh salad, followed by tiramisu for dessert! I couldn’t believe how fortunate we were to stumble upon such incredible trail magic. We shared trail stories before bed, then the next morning we were spoiled with lattes, juice, scrambled eggs, smoked salmon and salad for breakfast. Unbelievable! I honestly can’t thank you guys enough.

That morning after the incredible feast, I felt energised and seemed to fly through the first 12 miles to Summit Lake. There was a lot more climbing than the previous days, but I was enjoying the change of elevation which kept my mind completely occupied until it was time to break for lunch. Summit Lake was one of the most beautiful lakes I’ve had the opportunity to swim in on trail so far!

Because I didn’t hit the trail until just before 10am, I settled on a 23 mile day which left me 6 miles to the jeep road down to Shelter Cove Resort in the morning. The hike into the resort was a lot quicker than expected, and I was absolutely thrilled to discover upon arrival that they had wifi. The store had a fantastic patio and the whole place was so perfectly compact I fell in love with it immediately. The women at the store said I was like a ray of sunshine coming in the door, and I told them I’d finally broken out of a dark slump and was feeling wonderful! They grabbed my packages, made me a latte, and made me feel at home.

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So many great people arrived at the resort while I was there (Dingo, Mud, Katie, Lullaby, Bill and others). I camped with Dingo and Mud that night, and led them back to the PCT this morning as they’d come in on the Skyline Trail. It was great to hike with them, and I said it was like clocking over free miles because it almost felt like I was cheating it was so effortless.

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I broke away after the first water source, but a big group of about 10 of us kept breaking every 8 or so miles at the next lake together. This is where my self discovery took place. I’ve never been one for big groups, and much prefer to socialise either one on one or with a few people at a time. I think I feed off the energy of others, and just like in the real world, too much alone time can cause me to fall too deep into the dark thoughts that develop in my head when my own energy levels diminish. I need to find the right balance to keep the positive vibes flowing.