Firstly, I just skimmed through some of the comments that have been coming through the last couple of days regarding my and UB’s whereabouts on trail. Thank you so much for your thoughts and prayers; they may well have delivered us to Stehekin safely today.
There is obviously a lot to update you on, but for now I just wanted to let you all know that we made it here safely today on the 3pm bus from the ranger station at High Bridge.
The last 12 hours have been an ordeal to say the least. We woke this morning at 4:30am, packed up our wet sleeping bags, clothes and tents, and knew we were at the point of no return. We had to make it 22.5 miles to High Bridge over a 6000 foot pass. It had poured with rain all night so we knew what that meant 1000 feet above where we slept at Miner’s Creek… SNOW, and lots of it.
Many hikers had already turned back during this section, and we knew once we passed Fire Creek Pass we had no choice but to continue forward. The last few days proved what an incredible team UB and I are. We planned strategically to spread out our days to sleep low, conserve our food and dry clothes, and to get close enough last night to make one final push out of there. Yesterday we had to wear sopping wet clothes for 14 miles at low elevation to ensure we could survive one more night and the final climb over 6000 feet.
We don’t know of anyone who has made it through behind us and we’re very worried for a brother and sister hiking pair who passed us but are currently unaccounted for. I’m still shaking as I sit here writing this, knowing just how bitterly cold it was out there in the mountains when all our clothes were wet. I think I was close to hypothermic two days ago; today I was worried about UB when his hands were so cold I had to feed him lunch during one of our three 5 minute breaks for the entire day. We made it to High Bridge on a packet of jelly beans, a protein bar, snickers bar, cliff bar and one peanut butter and jelly tortilla.
There is one computer in Stehekin and no wifi so I will fill in the blanks of the last section in due course. For now I simply wanted to let you know we’re safe and well. We will spend tonight and tomorrow regrouping mentally and physically, assess the weather and our gear, and make an educated decision regarding the final section of the hike. Some hikers are pushing on, many are calling it quits. UB and I will make our decision based on the weather forecast, our gear and our skill level. I’m beginning to realise just how close we balanced on the fine line between life and death during this last section; and I don’t want to put UB and I at risk to cross the finish line.
Tomorrow we will know more. Keep an eye on SPOT on my ‘Where am I’ page, as I’m not sure I’ll have a chance to use this computer again while I’m here.
Thanks again for your thoughts and prayers… let’s hope for some clear days ahead.
Muk
Mexico to Canada 2013 
I just looked at Rozanne’s Spot and it looks like they headed West today instead of North. Does this mean that they are detouring or turning around? I so want them to make it, but only if it’s safe!
It looks like they checked in at Cutthroat Pass, which is on the PCT heading north.
They are on the PCT, at about 6800+ the spot was from about 2:30 PM and they have a while to go to get to Methow Valley where they are hoping to camp. If you really want to see what they are in and the terrain that they are hiking in, turn on the Terrain box under maps. Don’t do this if you worried a lot. 🙂
For those unfamilair with this section of the trail, Mazama is located East of the PCT so they would have traveled West to reach Rainy Pass on Hwy 20. Rainy Pass is at mile 2600 on the PCT. Cutthroat Pass is at mile 2604.64 per HalfMile’s maps (http://www.pctmap.net/).
If someone is using snowshoes, travel can be as slow as 1-2 mph depending on the conditions. I’ve been snowshoeing in the Cascades 3-4 days a week (really!!) for almost 15yrs. Even with a 25lb pack I can usually snowshoe at 3mph when the trail is well-packed and less than 1000′ elevation gain per mile.
If I am breaking trail in untracked snow, my speed can drop to 1mph depending on the depth my snowshoes are dropping into the snowpack. Cascade snow is affectionately referred to as cement because of its high water content; it is not like fluffy Tahoe or Colorado snow.
If there are trail sections that don’t require snowshoes and/or are bare of snow, most PCT hikers average 3mph or faster.
There are several passes they will have to cross, and two significant trail washouts, between Rainy Pass and the terminus. If you want to see the elevation gains/losses they will face I encourage you to download the HalfMile map for Washington, section L, on a computer. If you only have a smartphone, there is a free HalfMile iPhone app.
Wow Rozanne! What a journey, and so very nearly completed. All my thoughts and best wishes are with the two of you on the last stretch. Amazing!! Sending you much love from Melbourne. Stay safe. xxxx
Based on my calculations, it looks like they hiked about 3.5 miles today descending from around 6,700′ at Rainy Pass to around 4,900′ for camp tonight. Looks like they are camped between Tower Mtn & Mt Hardy. Only 65 miles to go!
I am coming up with something a little different, the last spot this evening has them at Methow Pass (mile 2610) at 5:30 PM, I don’t think they would have tried to camp there the pass is at 6600′. So if they continued down into the valley the next site was at 2615 (mile). That would have put them at about 15 miles for the day, which is what they were shooting for. That camp is at about 4600′ so there may or may not be snow, lets hope for no snow.
They should make it to Hart Pass (2630 mile) sometime tomorrow which is another 15 miles. Given that they started around 11 or 12 today I think they are doing good.
From Hart pass to the next camp sites are 6 miles a High camp and in snow or 11 miles which is also a high camp. 😦
I like your info better. I was using my DeLorme mapping software.
Just read your estimates Wolf, hope they got as far as you are forecasting!
Just hope everyone is safe. (Can’t stop checking on their progress!)
When I did a search on the GPS coordinates I placed them just before Methow Pass. HalfMile indicates a campsite near mile 2609. I’m a map and compass girl personally, no GPS for me … so who knows how good my calculations are.
If there is snow, there would be the advantage of digging in a little bit to protect against the cold winds on those sites further North.
Hate to say it, but there is the chance that a safety ranger has been sent to Harts Pass to stop hikers from going further since the trail is technically closed once they reach the Pasayten Wilderness just beyond Harts.
OF COURSE IT IS! Nothing like a government shut down to get the rangers out and “protecting” the trails. Gotta just love this all right now.
Why is the trail technically closed? I know national parks are closed completely but the PCT does not enter a national park in Washington state (it stays in Okanogan-Wenatchee National Forest, including the entire Pasayten and I know the OWNF is allowing people to access the forest). The campground at Hart’s Pass would be technically closed though, as all facilities are closed, but I bet they could still stay there or somewhere nearby.
To answer Andrea, the PCT goes through NF and NP land in Washington. North Cascades NP may be one of the least visited national parks but it is regulated by the Feds and is closed. You can be arrested if caught inside the boundaries. Signage is pretty clear and it seems like they’re being very serious about it. It’s not worth getting a federal arrest if you ask me.
How many hours did 3.5 miles take?
They didn’t check in at
Rainy Pass, but I think I saw were they may have started around noon. Based on others comments my info maybe incorrect. I’ll check it again in morning but I trust the others who are responding and are more familiar with the area.
My updated info shows 9 miles from Rainy Pass to the GPS coordinates where they checked in last, but that might not be where they ended their day.
IF they left at or around 11:30 they had hiked 10 mikes by 5:30pm so a little less then 2 miles per hour. If they left later then faster. The last text from UB was just after 10:30 so I am only guessing on the 11:30, but I don’t see how it was much before that.
I originally thought all lands outside the National Parks would remain open as well; however, when trying to locate links to share online for where the PCT crosses through the Okanogan-Whenatchee National Forest and Pasayten Wilderness brought me to pretty clear statements about all areas being closed.
The message on the Forest Service page was pretty stern …
“Due to the lapse in agency funding … recreation … suspended, and … all federally owned recreation sites are closed.”
“Law enforcement, fire suppression, and other essential services will continue without interruption.”
While the Okanogan-Whenachee Forest Service Site is kinder in it’s wording:
“Due to the lapse in federal government funding, the U.S. Forest Service, as with other federal agencies, is closed with the exception of certain essential services.”
Granted the Pasayten Wilderness has a self-issuing permit box on trail, it could easily be argued the trail is closed.
In the posts of Toots and Tears as well as Will and Julia they wrote that the National Park Service Ranger took names, gave warnings, and made it clear they would be arrested if they tried again to access the Ross Lake Trail (NPS).
While I prefer to think those in the trenches would look the other way, I get the distinct feeling the rangers hands are tied from all the posted messages and reports.
PS: I had to pull the links because my first post went to a moderated state.
Having a friend who works for the Forest Service, I learned that the “essential employees” are now mostly managers and salaried, who are NOT being paid during this time, but fulfilling the jobs of others. So the rangers who might have been in-the-trench previously are now more by-the-rule rangers.
I believe there is a small group of 3-4 hikers ahead of UB & Muk, leaving Rainy Pass on Tuesday if I remember correctly. I’ll post any updates I hear about that group. The good news is that unless it has snowed a lot more, their tracks and trail breaking should help Muk & UB.
Hopefully this works as I am on my phone. Here’s a link to Washington Trails Association’s website. It states on this page that National Forests are still open for hiking. This would include the Pasayten Wilderness as it is in the OWNF. Hopefully this helps clear up some confusion that the shutdown has created.
http://www.wta.org/signpost/federal-shutdown-what-it-means-to-hikers
Also, for those interested in the details of the trail as you are following along UB & Muk’s journey, start on this page of Will & Roadrunner’s blog. http://www.trailjournals.com/entry.cfm?id=435960
Thanks, Beekeeper.
I think they made a great decision to mail when they did, especially with how bad the weather was going to get. That was last Saturday, the 28th. My friend Denny finished on Friday, the 27th. He was five days ahead of his original schedule, and I am so happy he got out of there when he did.
I’m glad Rozanne’s SPOT is working again. Did we hear why it wasn’t working on the way to Stehekin? Were the batteries weak or dead? Was the cloud cover too severe?
They told me that they were using it, but I think that they bad weather was interfering with it. Which if true is something to think about! Either that or SPOT just has crappy service.
Andrea Dinsmore (I believe) posted something about the spots not working because of the sun and the equator. Evidently they weren’t working in the area between Skykomish and Stehekin after 2 pm. It wasn’t just Muk’s spot, it’s other hikers.
My friend Denny was using his SPOT Connect between Skykomish and Stehekin after 2 pm. You’re right. All of SPOT transmissions did _not_ get out, but half of them did. He left Skykomish on the 16th and got to the campground on the 22nd, and got SPOTs out only on the 17th, 20th, and 21st, all in the evening. He felt his batteries were an issue, but this is a guess. Maybe the weather was better for him that week.
I also checked from Stehekin to the border. Same deal. We only got three of Denny’s SPOT transmissions, two of which were within 3 miles of the border. “SPOTty” performance. 🙂 Well, I’m glad we’re getting Rozanne and UBs SPOTs now!
(I’m re-posting this, without links, because my first posting of this, a day and a half ago, is still “awaiting moderation.” I see others posting comments with links, but I’m in the dog house for some reason. 😦 Maybe I’m too much of a newbie to WordPress to be trusted with link. I don’t know.)
Given the remoteness of this last section of the PCT, Rozanne, you won’t get this before you get to Canada, and we won’t get anything from you, which is going to hurt us more than it’s going to hurt you! 🙂 But be safe, cautious, and know your limits. And best of luck.
Thanks for the updates, Wolfman!
I read Gus’s and his sister’s harrowing experience struggling to make it into Stehekin. I read Robin’s (Toots’) post about her and her group being turned back by three feet of snow piled up on the trail just past Cutthroat Pass trying when trying to hike out of Stehekin. And of course I read Rozanne’s blog and watched her video, with her words “this has been probably one of the scariest and most thrilling mornings on the trail” ringing in my mind.
I’ve also read everyone’s comments, starting with fuller’s and Jamie’s agreement, through to renegadepilgrim aka chatterbox’s. And finally Wolfman’s, who has been temperate but then took a stance about not returning them to Rainy Pass.
You’re right, Wolfman. Everyone has just gone trail crazy, or to paraphrase fuller, maybe it’s so-close-to-the-finish crazy.
Wolfman, thanks for everything you’ve done to help Rozanne and UB. Now that they made their decision to go onward, all we can do now is have faith in their decision making, and their safe arrival to Canada—or safe return to Stehekin. In my book, a safe return to Stehekin will be a victory. A victory for good decision making, and I’m sure a great story for Rozanne to captivate us with.
Making great progress towards Hart’s Pass! Fantastic!
As of 10:30 AM Friday October 04, they had made it 23 miles to the top of the switch backs before Hart pass, about 7 miles to go to get to Hart Pass.
If people want to see how deep the snow is where they where at their last SPOT location, take a look at this map from Postholer, which is using a layer from NOAA.
http://postholer.com/gmap/gmap.php?trail_id=1&lat=48.671220&lon=-120.718870&zoom=11&dist=0&markertype=14&vw=3&depth=1
If I’m reading it correctly, it seems like the snow is about 20-40 inches deep at the highest elevations.
By the way, Harts Pass is the fifth waypoint
north of Rozanne and UB.
Report just in on Facebook that a group of five has made it to Harts Pass and is pushing on toward the border. They are breaking trail at a rate of 15 miles per day which means that MukMuk, UB and their group should be moving faster — might even catch up with them at some point. Weather is reported to be sunny and beautiful. Snowshoes and ice axes necessary in case anyone else is considering following in their steps.
SPOT at 10:30am was at mile 2623. If they can make it to the vicinity of Tamarack Peak/Foggy Pass around mile 2336 by tonight, they have a real chance of making the border by Sunday night.
Since they have chosen to continue on and the weather seems to be holding for the next couple of days, I’ll be cheering them on to a safe arrival at the border while looking for good news in the search for Rocket Llama. Apparently some footprints were reported from the air near a stand of trees in Goat Rocks and additional searches will be undertaken by air and foot in the area.
@Susan: I presume you are referring to the group: Hercules, Night Crawler, Sneaks, Goldilocks, Frosty, Pimp Limp, Hannah and Hops having made it to Harts Pass.
That’s excellent news that a packed trail is ahead for Muk and UB, it will make the going better.
Hi darling, my mind boggles after reading so many replies, 91 of them. It is fantastic that so many friends and hikers are following you and are concerned. I am too, but I also know how determinant you are to finish this trail. I just hope that you and UB are taking the right decisions and not taking un needy risks. I wish you health, wisdom, warmth and safety. Go and take care. Love you heaps, mutti xxoo
FYI, the word is that UB and Muk are off trail and back in Mazama
I hope they are safe, warm, and have plenty of food … no matter where they are.
Hike your own hike, Pilbeam. It’s your adventure and your story, make it your own. Be safe! I’m hoping you are at that border tonight 10/6/2013.
Brooke, do you still think she can make it tonight? What’s the terrain like ahead of her?
She made it!
Muk and UB,
This has been such a fantastic journey to follow along with you both. Thank you so much for sharing it with us all. Absolutely inspirational and motivating! Hoping you arrive at the terminus safely.
Muk Muk, is solo. Follow her spot, it’s on. She’s between Buffalo and Windy Pass, started at Harts Pass this morning. Hoping she gets as many miles as possible before more the snow comes after midnight.
OMG, that is so awesome!! I’ve been trying to figure out what was going on. Be safe Muk Muk; you’re going to do this!
Clarification, she is hiking without, UB, Sorry for the solo comment. I’m hoping there is another hiker, but I have no idea.
What’s the word on UB? Does anybody know?
UB posted on his Facebook page that he left the trail for good yesterday (10/5) and he flew back to Trukee today (10/6).
http://ubserious.com/2013/10/06/update-4/
To follow up on Brooke’s comment about following Rozanne’s SPOT, here’s a link to her position at 12:41 pm today, on a snow depth map.
http://postholer.com/gmap/gmap.php?trail_id=1&lat=48.77848&lon=-120.72299&zoom=11&dist=0&markertype=14&vw=3&depth=1
Find the cross hairs at the center of the map. That’s just ahead of mile 2630.
Wow, great progress! 16 miles since 8:52 this morning, all through snow according to the map. And that was as of 5:20 pm.
Gonna be honest I really don’t like this info. It’s all going to change tomorrow. She is at mile 2645.7, Campsite by seasonal creek. 15 miles in 8 hrs. Next 400 ft elevation gain in the next 3 miles. Hmmm I wonder, if she’ll keep going!
It’s actually more than I was expecting, Brooke, and I had to change my guesses, below, because her 5:20 pm SPOT came in.
But you’re absolutely right. It will all change tomorrow. According to UB, she should have the right gear now.
Based on Muk Muk’s SPOT this evening, I’m guessing this might be her progress tonight and tomorrow. It’s just my educated guess.
Today’s start, 8:52 am, Sun 10/6: Mile 2624.5
As of 5:20 pm, Sun 10/6 Mile 2640
Tonight, Sun 10/6 (guess): Mile 2643 — Three more miles tonight?
Tomorrow afternoon, Mon 10/7 (guess): Mile 2654 — 11 miles to the Border!
Tomorrow evening, Mon 10/7 (guess): Mile 2663 — 9 more miles to Manning Park
Looking at the snow depth map, it looks like the trial is under snow the rest of the way, so I’m impressed by her mileage today. I’m worried about the storm that’s coming tonight after midnight, according to Brooke. Be safe, Muk Muk.
thanks for helping us understand exactly where she is and what she’s accomplished and what’s ahead…hopefully she’s run into other hikers to make the final push very early tomorrow.
400 ft elevation gain, hope so, nice work today!
Second SPOT from exactly the same location. Could be a funny SPOT thingy–that is, maybe she didn’t send it and SPOT just posted it twice–or may be she did send a second one. If so, Muk Muk may be sending out a second transmission to make sure it goes out because she’s setting up camp. We may not know until tomorrow for sure. No worries I think. Maybe we’ll get another SPOT tonight further up the trail. Who knows for sure.
grrr
The next couple miles until Hopkins Lake are TOUGH from what I remember from my 2010 thru-hike. I did not have any snow, but I remember saying to myself I would certainly not want to do some of those spots on snow, and most certainly not during a snow storm. So hopefully Muk Muk can make it to Hopkins Lake before any serious bad weather moves in. I will be relieved when she sends a OK Spot Message from around there. After Hopkins Lake it should be easy going to the border.
Wide Angle
Here’s a nice elevation map with pop-up mileage and waypoint names that might be useful to appreciate what Muk Muk has in front of her these last few days (fingers crossed).
http://bearcant.org/elevation.php
On the dark gray LEGEND at the bottom, you’ll have to click on Washington “L”. Then hover your cursor over the dot at 2640.5 and you’ll see “Spring and good campsite” pop-up. Muk Muk’s 5:20 and 5:44 pm SPOTS were just about a mile short of that.
This profile also shows she has to get up and over a summit on Lakeview Pass, which is over 7,000 ft. I hope the storm allows her to do it.
And again, if she decides to turn back, that is still a victory and taking away what The Trail wants for her for this journal.
Great resource, thanks for sharing
The drama just keeps building my dear Muk Muk. Can’t picture the last couple of days but presume it would be emotional and physical mayhem. So pleased you have kept the goal and main game as your focus despite every kind of distraction and obstacle. Just checked your Spot and it appears you are making very good time at present. The location and condition comments have been great but I guess you would not be reading them. A particular snow report was citing alarmingly deep cover but must presume you pushed through. Would have preferred you had company, any company these last miles but hope you can feel all the attention and thoughts from your followers.
Oh Muk Muk! You are hauling ass tonight! Something tells me that you are not going to bed until you reach the monument. Go Muk Muk!!!!
Oh and ditto what bkpilbeam said. I’m glad you kept the goal in site at all times. What a load of drama for the end of your journey.
Perhaps the “drama” may become the needed fuel for that final “kick.” She is determined, strong and smart….Godspeed and be safe, MukMuk!
Storm coming in tonight by 11pm. Starting as rain, then snow. Snow all day tomorrow and perhaps Tuesday. Not big amounts, but wind too. The sun is still shining tonight so wouldn’t think she’d be calling it quits yet.
Prayer vigil for Muk Muk, there are 271 of us following her. Please visualize her getting to the border safe and ask the powers that be to protect her and that means Mother Nature herself!
I am with you there Brooke, Mother Nature please be good to our Muk Muk, Mutti xxoo
SlimeDog and I are sending you our well wishes for a safe finish. May the tracks of those ahead of you guide you and keep you safe.
Right on Brooke. She’s definitely in our thoughts. What a remarkable woman she is.
Muk Muk,
We are all with you and praying for your success, but most of all for your safety. Make wise decisions and be safe. We remain optimistic that you will persevere and get to the terminus soon. Keep on hiking! Onward!
As a Washington state resident, I am going to do my best anti-snow, anti-bad weather dance right now and light a candle pleading to the weather gods that she reach her goal!
Right on Brooke, and everyone else. My thoughts to you, Muk Muk, on this night.
Go girl! So close. I hate to think of you out there on your own, but am in awe of what you have achieved so far and am sure you will be just fine and get your arse to Canada very soon. This has been an adventure of absolute Hollywood proportions! Love and warmth! xxxxx
Re-posting because earlier comments are “awaiting moderation”. Muk Muk, I am so excited that you are pushing on, but worried, too. Sending hopes for little snow, warmth, nourishment and a dynamite finish tonight or tomorrow!!!
Really glad youre safe. Hope you use your head in the next few days, I was in WA on my hike in a ice storm in my tent for 2 days straight and had to bush whack out in 2 feet deep snow and worse, I didn’t finish but it didn’t matter. Be safe, be strong and even if you don’t hit that border the hike wasn’t about that anyway, its about everything from then until now.
Hugs and hope to see you again somewhere out in the world
Your pal
Lion King
MTD
I can’t stop looking at these updates, we are all worried about you, but rooting you on. Prayers for safety. You got this, Muk Muk!
According to Postholer’s NOAA snow depth map, it’s snowing up there. Between 8:50 pm and 1:50 am there’s been color shifts to darker blues, which means deeper snow. It’s difficult to know how much more, but the change is visible.
Love you Roro! Can’t wait to see you again soon. Stay safe and know that we are all thinking of you xxx
Good morning all, it’s going to be another day to wait and wonder, hoping for success and safety. May the storm be a gentle one, may her path by those ahead remain well packed and easy to follow, may she make good decisions, may she be with a fellow hiker, these are my wishes as I begin my day.
I’ve been watching the finishes by those ahead and reading the stories of their challenges, as well as holding vigil for another who left from Rainy Pass on Saturday morning.
Come on Muk, so close and yet so far . . .
Good morning, Beekeeper. If you can, would you mind sharing links to blogs of others who have recently finished?
Muk, like others have said..I’m hoping for your safe travels and good judgement to reach the end. Since these storms have been coming through, you have been on my mind constantly. Safe and speedy travels to you.
Great news. Our girl is up at at it. Her SPOT from 6:55 am (an hour ago) shows that she is on the move, continuing onward and upwards, literally. Go luck, Muk Muk, on your two two climbs today. Continued good thoughts to you. We wait with bated breath for next word (or satellite communication) from you.
Yes. It’s totally nerve-wracking. But if anyone can do it, it is Muk Muk. This day is going to be a long…………… day for us following her.
Yeaaa!!!!
Today will be a challenging day. Muk is approaching Rock Pass (mile 2647) and the stretch between there and Woody Pass (mile 2649) is where the scree avalanches occurred during the August rains. Hopefully she will hit her SPOT at Woody Pass. The section through Hopkins Pass (mile 2654) is also reported by others to be tricky. Making it to the camp at Hopkins Lake tonight (an 8-mile day) will be excellent progress and set her up to reach both the border and the lodge at Manning tomorrow. Wouldn’t be surprised if she continues on, though, knowing how tough and determined she is … Sending you positive energy for a safe journey!